Marrakesh, Morocco

It is said that Marrakesh is a city of contrasts- where tradition meets modernity. We indeed witnessed that when we visited last week. And we also saw a contrast of a different sort- one where hard-working, good-natured, humble people live among a bustling, vibrant, almost hectic atmosphere. This is especially the case in the souks- a maze of narrow streets lined with shops and stalls in the medina (old city). I agree with what Rich says about the souks: “Once you embrace the frequent hustling of visitors by the merchants, you can enjoy the friendly and funny banter that results.” ⤵️

Our riad (a traditional Moroccan house that’s been converted into a hotel) was in the middle of those souks. Another contrast here- stepping from the frenzy of the souks (haggling going on everywhere, mini motorbikes whizzing through the crowds) into the calm and comfort of Bliss Riad. Bliss Riad has its own hammam (steam bath) and wellness center, which I took advantage of in the form of a blissful massage. And each day started with a delicious breakfast served on the riad’s rooftop patio. ⤵️

The Muslim call to prayer (Adhan) is recited five times a day and comes through tinny loudspeakers on the minarets of the mosques around Marrakesh. Rich and I will probably always retain the memory of the sound of the 5:30 AM Adhan while we try to fall back to sleep.  It’s quite a unique sound because you can hear several Adhan calls at the same time coming from different mosques throughout the city with a lag of a few seconds between each. It’s difficult to describe, so here is a video from our riad to give you a feel. ⤵️

On our first day we set out on a bike tour that took us though both the old and new parts of town and gave us an excellent “lay of the land.” We first rode around the walls of the King’s Palace and then we saw some shrines and gardens before heading through the narrow streets of the medina while trying to avoid pedestrians, mini motorbikes and horse drawn carts. And we thought Amsterdam was crazy to get around in by bike! ⤵️

Also on our first day, we did a food tour in the evening. The tour started in Jemaa el-Fnaa square, home to almost a thousand years of trading, bargaining, eating, and mingling. ⤵️

We wandered off into the small streets branching off from the square- first to a sort of underground bakery where the baker sells his oven time and expertise to whomever needs their goods cooked. While we were there, he was baking loaves of bread and someone’s plate of fish for their dinner. ⤵️

Then we were taken to an herbal shop where we got a demo about medicinal herbs, teas, cosmetics, oils and ointments. Rich was excited to purchase for me the herbal tea that is supposed to help me sleep, but alas it has not been working as it was touted ; ) We stopped at an outdoor stall for harira (soup of tomato, lentils, and chickpeas), ate Sfenj (a Moroccan doughnut made by frying plain, unsweetened yeast dough) and we dined on traditional Moroccan fare (think tangia & tajine) on a rooftop restaurant overlooking “The Big Square” (as the locals refer to it for us tourists since it’s much easier to say). We ended the evening at a rooftop bar for a beer with newfound friends from England. ⤵️

The second day consisted of an all day road trip to the Atlas Mountains and Agafay Desert. This was especially cool because we were guided through a Berber village by a young man who grew up in that very village. The Berber people are an indigenous group- they are one of the oldest cultures in North Africa and pre date the Arabs. Rachid had so much interesting information to tell us about the Berber culture (i.e, you should not pick your bride from your own village among the seven villages of the Imlil Valley; “Therefore,” he said optimistically, “I have six chances”). After trekking through his quaint village, we dined at another rooftop restaurant (very popular in this warm-all-year climate). ⤵️

After the meal, we got back in our van and traveled through the Kik Plateau, getting dramatic views of the High Atlas Mountains along the way (although maybe not quite as amazing as the views that the hang gliders we passed were getting). Then we went through stone desert, barren brown plateaus and rolling hills until we got to the spot where we were treated to the once-in-a-lifetime experience of riding a camel. ⤵️

On our last day we explored some more, ate some more and shopped some more. Yes Celia, we bought a rug!

(And for Connor– code phrase is “Skip-Bo: M4, R0”)

GALLERY

Photo shoot care of Rich- he’s getting really good at this, isn’t he?! ⤵️

Mint tea holds a very important place in the life and the social relations in Morocco- it is a drink of friendship and hospitality. It is usually prepared in front of guests. We drank it a few times a day : )

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